How to train a show puppy

[borzoimom 24]

This is a article I wrote at request of organization for training purposes. This may not be reproduced.

So- after hours, weeks, months of studying pedigrees, talking with breeders, finding the perfect one, big goals in mind, or maybe just simply wanting to raise a great companion- now you have a puppy. There will be a second follow up to helping an older pup or adult after adopting, but for now this is about helping to train a puppy for show.

Hopefully your puppy has already come from a breeder that exposed the puppy to normal household operations- i.e. dishwashers, ice makers, the vacuum cleaner, stairs etc. However- even if exposed to this at the breeders home, the concept of applying to a new home still needs to be done. In this article I am hoping to help " fill the gap" in new home training. Also- remember certain things such as dishwashers or vac cleaners, different models sound different.

Lets start with confidence building. Puppies are born with two primal fears- fear of heights or falling, and second a sudden loud noise that could mean danger. Lets start with the first- fear of falling .This is the same instinct that a puppy has to 'upright' themselves when held on their back or picked up. In picking a puppy up, simply supporting the feet helps with this. As far as heights- This is also why, so commonly, stairs are over whelming to puppies. Going up maybe easy as that is just climbing- however coming down is flat out frightening by nature. Additionally, especially with sight hounds, the days are making the world seem different in dimension as they grow in height. Additionally the lack of control in the knees gives the puppy the impression of falling down. However- picking the puppy up to go up or down stairs only more so enforces the puppy that now they are " up in the air" regardless of how they are held.

** How I start this is by one person when going upstairs is calling the puppy, the second is there as support to " block the sight" of the steps already traveled- i.e. giving a height definition. It takes awhile, but this also helps later with also teaching as an adult not to rush the steps upwards.

** to Teach coming down- do the same thing in reverse in some ways. The person in front of the puppy is only a step or two below the puppy. Calling in a gentle and CALM voice- i.e. this is not big deal taking it slowly. Also if the puppy over 'shoots' the steps coming down, the lower person can catch the puppy.

With practice it doesn't take long for the steps to easily be mastered.

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Now- lets move onto noises. It is totally normal for a puppy to be startled by a sudden loud noise. A sudden loud noise to a dog is also hears as a " yelp" even if the pitch doesn't sound like it. A yelp means hurt also means 'danger'.

I start my puppies with toys that make noise. The best toy in the world for a puppy is a empty soda bottle. Starting with a single 16 oz bottle, the puppy quickly learns just because something bangs around, is unpredictable, it wont hurt " me". You will see in all my videos that have a young puppy, I am using empty soda bottles. All toys should be supervised with a young puppy- but in general this is how it works. At first the cap is on so the puppy can not " flatten" the soda bottle, the label is removed. Advancing to larger bottles ( like juice bottles or milk gallon containers.

Additionally its fun to chase ( another nature behavior.). As the puppy gains confidence, one of the bottles take off the cap- this introduces a sudden crunching sound- as the bottle is " flattened". ( attaches video) ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwoonfqmQFA and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s39YzBS4BUw ) Keep your voice happy and silly- i.e. this is fun for everyone... )

At dog shows sudden loud noises are common place. This is a start to teaching the puppy the concept that a sudden loud noise, or unpredictable movement is a great thing to investigate.

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Now moving onto normal appliances in a home. Remember- even if the puppy was introduced to these items in their home, the concept of applying it to the 'new home' still needs to be established. Using the fact the soda bottle training- i.e. something makes noise and is fun, at first the puppy should hear first, then see the item. I start by running the vac in the next room or behind a child gate so they can watch the action but without it coming in too closely. Do this for several days without the puppy actually coming in close contact yet. When you notice is basically only glancing and then ignoring the activity, you can progress from there. Also- by learning to ignore the noise ( the vac especially) also discourages chasing the object ( a common pet peeve with dog owners and they wonder how it got started. ...)

Other objects like the dishwasher or a ice maker first are used when the puppy is within site, but remember to keep your body posture calm and collected- i.e. non chalant...

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Another subject for the puppy is how do I meet a stranger, or greet my owner (s). One thing a person does is " OH MY - WHAT A CUTE PUPPY" WITH elevated excited voice etc and sudden even physical contact. Even your own arrival into the home or meeting first thing in the morning letting the puppy out of the crate etc. Or letting back into the house from the yard.. How the owner handles this affects puppies to adult dogs coming into a new home, and defines 'what is expected of them'. Done improperly the owner ends up with anything from separation anxiety, over zealous in meeting new people or other dogs, fear of new people etc. All basically from a simple line of logic- the puppy or adult suddenly does not know how to handle a change in stimulus. It all goes back to anticipating a greeting. ( i.e. is it positive to negative - over the top or calm and casual..). Even in a wolf pack the return of pack members in observation is rather reserved, casual in fact at first.

With puppy to adult, any change in people etc is more approached in this casual nature. This is hard to do like if the door bell suddenly rings for example. Slow casual walking to the door by the person, deep breath exhales ( dog language for ignoring or casual) done consistently and not opening the door until all is calm, is the key. Same with returning home- open the door, put your things up, casual " how are you " calm pet but move on and waiting a few minutes like to give a cookie or going outside etc. Letting out of the crate- same thing- just open and walk on through casual. Friends coming over, they talk to you, again- ignoring in casual conversation the dog and move on only once things have calmed down. This also helps with separation anxiety as the dog learns that while something or someone to greet, we are just moving along in a casual nature.

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Michelle Copeland